Crochet Yoda Hat

Size 1-3 years based of this chart 
Has not been tested

NOTE: My patterns are free and I would like them to stay that way. You are free to print them out and pass them around but please make sure my blog address is somewhere on the pattern (http://knotyournanascrochet.blogspot.co.nz/) so that people know where the pattern originated. 

Please do not sell my patterns or say they are your own. You are free to do whatever you want with the finished item. If you are selling them online please link back the pattern and give me credit. I took the time to write this pattern out so the least you can do is take the small amount of time it takes to give me credit. 

Materials

4 mm crochet hook
Green DK 8 ply yarn
Scissors
Yarn needle

Pattern:

Hat:
(Ch 2 counts as the first dc in each round)

Starting with a magic circle

Round 1: Ch 2, 11 dc in circle. Join to top of ch 2 with a sl st.(12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. Join to top of ch 2 with a sl st (24 dc)

Round 3: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a sl st (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2, dc in next 2 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in next 2 st* around. Join to top of ch 2 with a sl st (48 dc)

Round 5: Ch 2, dc in same stitch as dc, dc in next 3, *2 dc in next stitch, dc in next 3 stitches*around. Join to top of ch 2 with a sl st (60 dc)

^ This is your increase circle which should measure 5 1/2 inches for the size we are making.

Round 6-12: Ch 2, dc around, Join to top of ch 2 with a sl st. (60 stitches)

Round 13- 16 : Ch 1, sc in same stitch as ch 1 and around, join to first sc with a sl st. (60 sc)

Finish off and weave in ends.

Ears (make 2):

Working in continuous rounds.

Start with a magic circle:

Round 1: 6 sc into the circle. (6 sc)
Round 2: sc around (6 sc)
Round 3: 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next. (9 sc)
Round 4: sc around (9 sc)
Round 5: 2 sc in next st, sc in next (14 sc)
Round 6-10: sc around (14 sc)
Round 11:  2 sc in next st, sc in next (21 sc)
Round 12:  sc around (21 sc)
Round 13: 2 sc in next, sc in next 2 stitches (28)
Round 14-16: sc around (28)
Round 17: 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 2 stitches (38)
Round 18-22 : sc around (38)
Round 23: sc2tog, 2 sc. (28)
Round 24: sc around (28)
Round 25: sc2tog, sc in next 2 stitches (21)
Round 26-27: sc around (21)

Finish off with a long tail for sewing.

Crochet Sheep Applique

Farm Blanket - Sheep Block

This it the first block in my farm themed blanket that I am making for the Te Puke A&P show home industries competition. It is currently being tested but the pattern will be available for sale soon. Each block measures 12 1/2 by 11 inches. The sheep measures 9 x 6 1/2 inches. Pattern will be available on Ravelry and Craftsy

Tractor applique

NOTE: My patterns are free and I would like them to stay that way. You are free to print them out and pass them around but please make sure my blog address is somewhere on the pattern (http://knotyournanascrochet.blogspot.co.nz/) so that people know where the pattern originated. 

Please do not sell my patterns or say they are your own. You are free to do whatever you want with the finished item. If you are selling them online please link back the pattern and give me credit. I took the time to write this pattern out so the least you can do is take the small amount of time it takes to give me credit. 

Using a 5mm hook and dk yarn,
This can be changed for bigger yarn or different hook you will just get a different size

Tractor Body
Row 1: Ch 11, sc in second ch from the hook (10) ch1 turn.
Row 2: sc across
Row 3: sc in blo for first 5, sc through both loops next 5. Turn

Ch 9, join in 3rd stitch, sc up 3 ch, ch 6, sk 2, join.

sc up the ch, along the top and down the side. continue sc around the rest of the tractor until you get where you started going up the ch, DO TWO SC IN THE CORNERS TO KEEP IT FLAT.  Sl St into the ch space, Finish off

Wheels
Big
Round 1:with yellow Magic circle, ch 1, 12 sc around join to first sc Finish off
Round 2: Join black, ch 2, 2 hdc in each st, join to first hdc, finish off

Small

Round 1: With yellow, Magic circle, ch1, 8sc around join to first sc, finish off
Round 2: Join black, ch2, 2 hdc in each stitch round, join to first hdc and finish off.

Exhaust

Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (4) finish off.
Sew wheels onto tractor, then sew tractor onto item shaping windows as you go.

Crochet Sandals

Now first off I would like to say that I am unsure what age child these would fit, they work out to be about a child/toddler size 8NZ/ 11US/ 28 Euro/ 10 UK, 6 ¾ inches, 17cm from heel to toe.

A great sizing chart can be found here http://www.zappos.com/measure-your-shoe-size. A few women I talked to said there three year olds wore a size US11 shoe but this will obviously vary from child to child. If you know the foot measurement here is a great tutorial/pattern for making the sole. http://www.chocolatemintsinajar.com/craft/2010/08/how-to-open-toe-crochet-sandals-for-any-size/

This is what I based my sole off http://hodgepodgecrochet.wordpress.com/2012/02/23/simple-toddler-slippers/. Have a look and while you are there take a look at the rest of her blog. Some great free patterns to be found.

Stitches used:
dc: Double Crochet
trc: Triple Crochet
sc: Single Crochet

American terms

So to start the pattern:

I used a 5mm hook and dk yarn

Sole - Make 4 (2 for each sandal)

Round 1: Ch 20, dc in 3^rd ch from the hook,  15 dc, trc in next st, 2 trc in next st, 10 trc in end chain. Working other side of foundation ch. 2 trc in next st, 1 trc in next st, 15 dc, 2 dc in last st

Round 2:  2 dc in first dc of last round, 19 dc, 2dc in nxt, 1 dc, 2dc next, 1 dc, 2 dc nxt, 21 dc, 2 dc nxt x 3.

Round 3. sc around 53, Sl st into nxt st finish off

To join soles together:

With contrasting colour (cc) Sl St around to join the two soles together. I started at the heel as the join will be covered when the back of the sandal is sewed on. I also inserted a piece of cardboard between the two soles to make it less flimsy. Thinking now plastic may be better as you will be able to wash them. Something like an icecream container would work well for this.

Front Straps (make 4):

I changed to a 4mm hook here

Ch 20, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc across. Finish off.

With contrasting colour sl st around

Back Strap (right shoe):

Ch 2 counts as a dc

Row 1: Ch 45, 43 dc across (44 dc) ch 2, turn

Row 2: 7 dc across, (8dc) ch 2, turn

Row 3: 7 dc across, (8dc) finish off.

Row 2: Other side,

With right side facing you, count 16 st to the right, attach yarn, ch 2, 7 dc (8dc) Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: 7 dc (8dc) ch 1, turn.

Row 4: 8 sc across, ch 8, join to other side with a sl st, 8 sc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 5. 8 dc, 8 dc over chain, 8 dc,  (24 dc) finish off leaving a tail long enough for sewing onto sole

With cc, sl st around outside and around the back opening.

Back Strap (left shoe)

Row 1: Ch 45, 43 dc across (44 dc) Finish off.

Row 2: With wrong side facing. Count 20 from right end of work, attach yarn, ch2, 7 dc (8dc) ch 2, turn

Row 3: 7 dc (8dc) finish off

Row 2: Other side

Attach Yarn to short end of strap. Ch 2, 7 dc. (8dc). ch2 turn.

Row 3: 7 dc (8dc) Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: 8 sc, ch 8, join to other side with a sl st, 8 sc, ch 2, turn.

Row 5. 8 dc, 8 dc over chain, 8 dc,  (24 dc) finish off leaving a tail long enough for sewing onto sole

With cc, sl st around outside and around the back opening.

When sewing back strap to sole ensure the strap joins (where button goes) on the outside of the shoe.

Sew front straps onto the shoes

Add buttons to secure strap.

And you're done.

The front staps can be done in a variety of ways, one thick strap or you could make 4 straps for each shoe and overlap them, joining with a button. This would make the front straps adjustable to different width feet.